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Ika Umu (Whole Umu-Baked Fish for Feasts)

The Quirky Foodster Team

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6
Servings

Ingredients

  • Large whole fish (about 2–3 kg/4 1/2–6 1/2 lb), cleaned and scaled — 1
  • Salt — 2 tsp
  • Black pepper — 1 tsp
  • Garlic cloves, crushed — 4
  • Onions, sliced — 2
  • Lemons or limes, sliced — 2
  • Banana leaves, for wrapping
  • Coconut cream — 250 ml (1 cup)

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F) if oven-roasting rather than using a traditional umu.
  2. Season the fish generously, inside and out, with salt, pepper and crushed garlic.
  3. Stuff the cavity with half the sliced onion and lemon or lime slices.
  4. Lay out enough banana leaves to fully wrap the fish, place the remaining onion and citrus slices over the top, and wrap the fish tightly, securing with butcher's twine if needed.
  5. Wrap the whole parcel again in a layer of heavy-duty foil.
  6. Place in a large baking dish and bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until the fish is fully cooked through and flakes easily at the thickest part.
  7. Carefully unwrap, transfer to a large platter, and warm the coconut cream gently to spoon over just before serving.
  8. Serve as the centrepiece of a feast, alongside palusami, taro and other traditional dishes.

Introduction: A large whole fish, wrapped in leaves and slow-cooked in the umu alongside other feast dishes, is a
centrepiece of Tokelauan celebrations, its smoky, tender result reflecting the deep connection between the
islands' communal cooking traditions and the abundance of the surrounding ocean.

Cultural Background: A large whole fish, wrapped in leaves and slow-cooked in the umu alongside other feast dishes, is a
centrepiece of Tokelauan celebrations, its smoky, tender result reflecting the deep connection between the
islands' communal cooking traditions and the abundance of the surrounding ocean.

Tips: Wrapping the fish tightly in banana leaves and foil helps it steam gently and stay moist through the long, slow cook. Choose the largest fresh fish available for a true feast-style centrepiece.

Variations: Use two or three smaller fish instead of one large one if that better suits the day's catch. Add a few slices of chilli inside the cavity for gentle heat. This dish is defined by a whole fish and is central to feast culture; no vegetarian version exists for this
specific occasion dish.

Storage: Refrigerate leftover fish in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Reheating: Reheat gently in a covered dish in a 160°C (325°F) oven for 10–15 minutes, taking care not to dry out the
fish.

FAQs:

Q: What size fish is traditional?

A: As large a fresh fish as is available, since this dish is meant to serve a whole gathering as a feast centrepiece.

Q: Can I use fillets instead of a whole fish?

A: A whole fish is traditional and gives the most impressive presentation for a feast, though large fillets can be wrapped and baked similarly with a shorter cooking time.

Q: Why wrap in banana leaves?

A: Banana leaves impart a subtle fragrance and help keep the fish moist during the long, slow cook, echoing traditional umu cooking.